The short answer
For an independent dressmaker in the US, labour on a dress from scratch typically runs $150 to $650, with fabric on top. A simple shift in cotton sits near the bottom. A boned strapless gown in satin with a train sits near the top, and can exceed it.
Fabric is usually $40–150 for a dress, more for silk. Budget the full project at roughly double the labour quote and you will rarely be surprised.
These are estimated ranges to help you budget, not quotes. Every maker prices differently, and the only real number is the one your dressmaker gives you after seeing the specification and the fabric.
What actually drives the price
- Structure beats size. A floor-length skirt uses more fabric but barely more labour. A strapless bodice needs boning, an internal waist stay and a much more careful fitting — that is where the hours go.
- Lining roughly adds a third. It is effectively a second garment sewn inside the first.
- Difficult fabrics cost more to sew. Chiffon, satin and velvet all take longer and punish mistakes. Cotton and ponte are forgiving.
- Closures. A row of covered buttons down the back is hours of work. An invisible zip is twenty minutes.
- Fittings. One is standard. Three is a couture process and priced accordingly.
Why quotes vary so much between makers
Rates differ enormously by city and by whether the maker works from home or a storefront. A home-based sewist in a small town may charge a third of a downtown atelier for the same garment. Neither is wrong. What matters is that you compare like with like — which is exactly what a written specification lets you do, because three makers quoting from the same document are quoting the same job.
Getting an accurate quote
Bring the spec sheet, the fabric (or a swatch), and your deadline. Ask three questions: what is included, how many fittings, and what happens if it doesn't fit. Agree the price before anything is cut. A maker who won't quote from a clear brief is telling you something useful.