The one-line version
Satin is glossy and shows everything. Crepe is matte, forgiving and the safest choice. Chiffon is sheer and floaty and needs a lining underneath.
Satin
High shine, smooth face, and it reflects light in a way that emphasises every contour underneath — flattering on a structured gown, less so on a close-fitting sheath. It shows needle marks permanently, which means a dressmaker cannot unpick a mistake without evidence, so it takes longer and costs more to sew. Photographs beautifully under warm light and can look harsh under flash. Best for: ball gowns, structured bodices, anything formal.
Crepe
A matte surface with a fine crinkled texture that hides the small irregularities satin advertises. It drapes softly without clinging, comes in every weight, and is the fabric most dressmakers will steer you toward if you ask them to pick. Frays readily, so seams need proper finishing. Best for: almost anything, and particularly anything you want to wear more than once.
Chiffon
Sheer, light and fluid. It must be worn over a lining or underlined — this effectively doubles the fabric and adds meaningfully to the labour, because it also has to be cut single-layer over tissue paper to stop it shifting. The payoff is movement nothing else matches. Best for: overlays, floaty skirts, sleeves, anywhere you want the fabric to move when you do.
If you cannot decide and it needs to work: crepe. If it needs to be dramatic: satin. If it needs to move: chiffon over a crepe lining.
What each does to the price
Crepe is the cheapest to sew. Satin adds roughly 15–20% in labour for the care it demands. Chiffon can add 40% or more once lining is accounted for. Ask your dressmaker before choosing — some will decline chiffon outright, and that is a reasonable thing for them to do.