A clean square neckline, a bodice that is properly fitted through the waist, and a knife-pleated skirt that holds its shape when you move. The pleats are what make this one worth having made rather than bought — they are pressed and stay-stitched at the waist, which is fiddly work and exactly the sort of thing that separates a garment made for you from one made for a size chart.
Why it works on most people
The square neck sits wide enough to broaden narrow shoulders and balance a fuller bust without exposing much. The defined waist seam does the shaping, so the skirt can be full without adding bulk. And a midi length that lands just below the calf is the most forgiving of all the midi variants.
Notes for your dressmaker
Crepe is the right weight here — heavy enough to hold a pleat, matte enough to hide the small irregularities a shinier fabric would advertise. Ask for in-seam pockets; they cost very little extra and this is a dress you will want them in. Confirm the strap placement at the fitting, since square necklines shift on different shoulder slopes.
